Transmission and Final Drive Fluid Change

51,734 Miles, 19 months after 48K service

Changed Transmission Oil
Two new crush washers
Red Line 75w90 Synthetic Gear Oil, 1000cc

Lubro-Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction for Gears, 2.5 tsp

Changed Final Drive Oil
Two new crush washers
Spectro Hypoid Gear Lubricant 80w90, 250cc
Lubro-Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction for Gears, 2.5 tsp

Surging FIXED !!!!

After reading this on the BMW Sport Touring website about surging I thought I would give it a try.

http://www.bmwrt.com/faq/surge.htm

"Tomb9 utilizes a different procedure: "I've spent some time diagnosing my surging, and I have a slightly different take than the zero-zero adjustment. As mentioned in other posts, the surging is a result of the overly lean mixture on US bikes. The zero-zero procedure attempts to adjust the TPS to richen the mixture, but misses the point. The fuel injection uses the TPS to indicate throttle opening, so it can be adjusted to increase the amount of fuel without increasing the amount of air. The results are a richer mixture. The procedure is simple. Pull your left fairing cover. Get out your trusty DVM and attach the minus side to the battery negative terminal. Attach the plus side to a pin and stuff the pin into the end wire of the TPS connector (red/white). Turn on the ignition, but don't start the bike. The DVM will now read between .300 and .400 volts. The optimum setting is .395. Loosen the screws that hold the TPS in place, and rotate the TPS until you get 0.395 volts. Tighten the screws and crank on the throttle a few times. Reset the screws if required to get the correct voltage."


I took a reading of the TPS and it was set to .358, so I hooked up the Digital Volt Meter by shoving the positive lead into the red/white wire area and plug negative on a unpainted bolt, and set the TPS with the two screws to .395/.394.  


Took a test ride, and boom, surging all gone, nice to finally get that monkey off the back, as a summary, I replaced the spark plugs a while ago with Autolites, did not help, but not a bad replacement from Wally World anyway, TPS setting .395, FIXED !!!, I will monitor fuel consumption, as the throttle is now running a bit more rich, spark plug condition will be checked at next maintenance also to verify not running too hot.

Inspected Battery

Every since I got the bike, I have noticed periodic ABS faults, I have rigged up a jumper wire to help clear the fault, but since I was doing some maintenance, I decided to pull the battery.

I measured the voltage to be 12.8 volts which is right on after being fully charged,.

I did see on the back of the battery a use by 11/2009 sticker.


Maintenance Free sealed Battery


I need to find out if that means it is time to renew.

Brake Fluid Flush

51,647 miles

Today, cold in the garage, but time to do the annual brake fluid flush.  The fluid looks a little dark on the front master cylinder.

I bought a Mighty Vac, so bleeding the brakes is much easier now.

Rear
I first did the rear brake, then proceeded to do the front left brake.  The right brake has a grub screw on it, so bleeding this requires a new part I do not have yet.

The outer rear brake pad on the front side measured below 1.5mm of pad left, it is time to get new pads for the rear.

After looking through the forums, people swear that EBC FA18HH brake pads made in the USA are better than the OEM BMW pads.  They are easy to find online, BeemerBoneYard also sells brake pads.

From 2000 BMW R1100RS

Front
I did not pull of the calipers and pads on this yet, I will do this next weekend when my hands do not freeze up, it sure is cold these days, looking forward to warmer weather.