Bar Backs Baby

This is probably the best 37 dollars money can buy, these bar backs go on without any modifications to the cables and for my tong torso/short arms help a bunch, almost make it like a GS, nah, whos kidding who.

New Battery

I just purchased a WestCo Battery from BeemerBoneYard on sale for $89.95.  This battery is highly recommended right behind the Odyssey PC680, which costs around $130.

This battery slides in without any fuss, and uses standard chargers, so I'm good to go.

I decided to put a label on the side facing the tupperware, in case I forget when I replaced it, I wish the previous owner had done this when the previous battery was replaced.  I did not know the age of the BMW Exide battery that was in the bike, but I was getting many ABS faults, which is a tell tale sign of a weak battery.

I proceeded to remove the snorkel air intake tube, disconnected old battery, and slide out and put new one in, took about 10 mins, easy as pie.

Here is the finished product, all buttoned up and labeled, the battery strap was a bit loose, since the new battery is not as tall, I put a sponge in there to fill the area.

Carb Sync

I received my used "TwinMax" in the mail yesterday.  The BMW mechanic sold me a TecMate CarbMate electronic carb synchronizer which is the same as the MotionPro Twinmax.  I warmed up the bike for a 10 mile ride, then came back to sync idle.  Cylmers says it should be between 1050-1150 rpm's.  Mine was running a bit high, probably 1100-1200.

I zero-ed out the tool at the lowest setting, then hooked it up to the vacuum ports on the throttle bodies.  I then turned the sensitivity up to 2.  I turned the BIG BRASS CREWS in all the way then backed each out to 1 1/4 turns.  I proceeded to set the idle at 1050 and sync the idle at the highest sensitivity setting on the CarbMate which is 0,5 of Mercury resolution, slowly turned the right screw until a Happy Face green LED showed solid bright light.

After idle I slowly turned the throttle and the green light never wandered at higher rpm's so I left the throttle cables alone, and took a test drive.  I noticed the vibration in the mirrors was less and the idle felt less rough.

I like this tool, look forward to trying it out on the Airhead.

New Rear Brake Pads

Changed the rear brake pads, 51K, rear outside pad measured less than 1mm thick.  Purchase new Carbone Lorraine pads for the rear.

Transmission and Final Drive Fluid Change

51,734 Miles, 19 months after 48K service

Changed Transmission Oil
Two new crush washers
Red Line 75w90 Synthetic Gear Oil, 1000cc

Lubro-Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction for Gears, 2.5 tsp

Changed Final Drive Oil
Two new crush washers
Spectro Hypoid Gear Lubricant 80w90, 250cc
Lubro-Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction for Gears, 2.5 tsp

Surging FIXED !!!!

After reading this on the BMW Sport Touring website about surging I thought I would give it a try.

http://www.bmwrt.com/faq/surge.htm

"Tomb9 utilizes a different procedure: "I've spent some time diagnosing my surging, and I have a slightly different take than the zero-zero adjustment. As mentioned in other posts, the surging is a result of the overly lean mixture on US bikes. The zero-zero procedure attempts to adjust the TPS to richen the mixture, but misses the point. The fuel injection uses the TPS to indicate throttle opening, so it can be adjusted to increase the amount of fuel without increasing the amount of air. The results are a richer mixture. The procedure is simple. Pull your left fairing cover. Get out your trusty DVM and attach the minus side to the battery negative terminal. Attach the plus side to a pin and stuff the pin into the end wire of the TPS connector (red/white). Turn on the ignition, but don't start the bike. The DVM will now read between .300 and .400 volts. The optimum setting is .395. Loosen the screws that hold the TPS in place, and rotate the TPS until you get 0.395 volts. Tighten the screws and crank on the throttle a few times. Reset the screws if required to get the correct voltage."


I took a reading of the TPS and it was set to .358, so I hooked up the Digital Volt Meter by shoving the positive lead into the red/white wire area and plug negative on a unpainted bolt, and set the TPS with the two screws to .395/.394.  


Took a test ride, and boom, surging all gone, nice to finally get that monkey off the back, as a summary, I replaced the spark plugs a while ago with Autolites, did not help, but not a bad replacement from Wally World anyway, TPS setting .395, FIXED !!!, I will monitor fuel consumption, as the throttle is now running a bit more rich, spark plug condition will be checked at next maintenance also to verify not running too hot.

Inspected Battery

Every since I got the bike, I have noticed periodic ABS faults, I have rigged up a jumper wire to help clear the fault, but since I was doing some maintenance, I decided to pull the battery.

I measured the voltage to be 12.8 volts which is right on after being fully charged,.

I did see on the back of the battery a use by 11/2009 sticker.


Maintenance Free sealed Battery


I need to find out if that means it is time to renew.

Brake Fluid Flush

51,647 miles

Today, cold in the garage, but time to do the annual brake fluid flush.  The fluid looks a little dark on the front master cylinder.

I bought a Mighty Vac, so bleeding the brakes is much easier now.

Rear
I first did the rear brake, then proceeded to do the front left brake.  The right brake has a grub screw on it, so bleeding this requires a new part I do not have yet.

The outer rear brake pad on the front side measured below 1.5mm of pad left, it is time to get new pads for the rear.

After looking through the forums, people swear that EBC FA18HH brake pads made in the USA are better than the OEM BMW pads.  They are easy to find online, BeemerBoneYard also sells brake pads.

From 2000 BMW R1100RS

Front
I did not pull of the calipers and pads on this yet, I will do this next weekend when my hands do not freeze up, it sure is cold these days, looking forward to warmer weather.

Got a Cee Bailey's +8.5 inch Windshield over the Holiday. This shield is large, but makes the ride more comfortable. Found this on Beemer BoneYard, the holes were drilled a bit larger than OEM shield, so a quick ride over the ACE hardware to get some metric screws, washers, and neoprene backs to hook this puppy on.

Website reference

http://www.ceebaileys.com/bmw/bmws1100rs.htm